To & From:
Like so much of the USA, Philadelphia is easily accessed from Ireland, with direct services from Dublin with pre-clearance.
It is the largest city in Pennsylvania, and oddly the sixth most populous in the States, rich in history, with the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence and Constitution were signed . Also iconic are the steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, immortalized by Sylvester Stallone’s triumphant run in the film “Rocky.” But there is far more to the former Capital which makes it an ideal long weekend destination, and a gateway to its bigger neighbours, New York, Washington and Boston.
Like so much of the East Coast, winter can have a sharp edge and snow is a frequent visitor, summers in contrast are hot and humid. We travelled in Autumn to enjoy the best of climates.
Flight time approx 8 hours with GMT- 5, you arrive three hours later local time, Aer Lingus have mid-day flights out and early evening back which are perfect to maximise time on the ground.
We arrived into Philadelphia International Airport ( PHL), mid afternoon and jumped on the SEPTA rail line that links the airport to downtown in approx 30 minutes. The airport is south of the City which runs North South adjacent to the Delaware river. At its very centre is City Hall, and the subway station drops you directly to The Ritz Carlton Hotel where we had chosen to stay. The Hotel really stands out, set in a former bank it was constructed to resemble the Pantheon, complete with white columns and a huge dome towering above the lobby.
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Arrival as you would expect was truly welcoming and efficient, once unpacked we headed out to take in the surroundings before landing at Con Murphy’s pub, for a well earned drink and dinner.
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Day 1.
You have to prize yourself away from the opulent surroundings of the Ritz, but that we did after a fantastic breakfast. Setting out for the Liberty Bell. The centre of the City is compact so there is no real need to catch the metro, better to walk and see the sights along the main streets that lead to the old historic heart and further on down to the Delaware river. The retail peters out before you reach the Independence visitors centre, giving way to some urban decay and the homeless, but it’s not long before the surroundings improve and you arrive at the centre.
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The visitors centre is worth a trip and has two of the iconic attractions, Independence Hall behind the bus, is the birthplace of America, and where the Declaration of Independence and U.S. Constitution were crafted debated and signed. Now an UNESCO World heritage site, the hall is surprising small but remains in great original condition second is the Liberty Bell (a symbol of abolitionist movement).
The area also includes the historic houses, government buildings, museums, churches and cemeteries that make up Independence National Historical Park, the “most historic square mile in America” run by the National Parks Service.
Further East leads down towards the Delaware river, and the I-95 Park, that hosts a bronze statue to the first Irish immigrants to arrive to these parts.
Crossing over the Christopher Columbus Boulevard, there are plenty of other war memorials, and Penn’s’ landing sites, together with an array of historic walks and wharf side eateries and pop up markets.
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2nd Street Station is ideally positioned to get you back Downtown if you have had enough exercise for one day.
There are plenty of choices for food in and around City Hall area, everything you want within easy walking distance and all very safe.
Day 2.
Heading out in the opposite direction West, you first come across the Shops at Liberty place, great centre for food and fashion, it also has One Liberty Observation tower. Further West down Market Street you will come across a truly different museum, the collection at Mutter might not suit all tastes but its fascinating
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After lunch, we had planned to go to The Philadelphia Museum of Art, so a brisk walk North on 22nd street to meet Benjamin Franklin Freeway, which then leads you into the parks surrounding the Museum.
The Rocky steps lead you back down towards Downtown, unfortunately the park in front is a refuge for the may homeless in the City. Tonight had to be our visit to an Indian restaurant where ever we visit in the world ! We choose Thanal Indian Tavern where the cuisine is best described as authentic and innovative with subtle fusion and tinges of barbecue. See link 8
Day 3.
The historic area is really worth a second look and further exploration , and a great afternoon can be spent at the aquarium on the other side of the mighty Delaware River.
Fortunately you don’t have to cross the Benjamin Frankly bridge, you can catch a ferry across from the Independence Seaport Museum to Wiggins Waterfront Park where the aquarium is located. Tonight we dined in one of our American favourite steak & seafood restaurants (& Mc name sake) “McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood & Steaks”, having dined in number of them around the USA it was always going to be a must!!
Day 4.
As the flight back is early evening you have time to pick up the last of the shopping around market Street and at Liberty place, before packing and heading back to the airport.
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